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When assembling a list of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate renowned high-end venues. However, situated near the top among these food giants is a simple salonu found in a far-flung area of north London.

An Surprise Honour

This small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. The honour has made the owners utterly astonished.

“I’m totally shocked,” states the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that led to their small place achieving such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has retained much of its former character. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant more than delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender quality.

It is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in less syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Creed of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s success is set to resonate beyond its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this gastronomic triumph.